This ones not about diving. This one's about surfing. It's about remembering what I lost leaving Ventura Coast three years before. Tom borrowed a board for me and we headed to the beach. The board was an old beat up 9-2 with rounded rails and a fairly flat rocker. As we paddled out through the surf the waves rolled over us as the cold salt water provided a bracing welcome. We stayed on the inside away from the beginners and the paddleboarders. It felt good just to sit on the board again and scan the horizon for the right incoming wave. Tom caught one while I waited. I pearled on my first wave. The waves were 3-4 feet, breaking at the top and peeling to the right in towards the beach. Apparently we were lucky as Hurricane Eugene was kicking up down in the Eastern Pacific while the prior few weeks were fairly flat. As I watched the horizon I saw a few more sets coming in that looked sizeable with good faces and a nice peel. A few strokes and I was up sliding down the face, cutting to the right with the wave breaking behind me. I knew I was home.
Well u know if you miss it that much you could do an Occasional wave out on the coast here. But your drysuit zipper might be rough on the board! Of
ReplyDeleteCourse you could always go wet! :-)
Pam